Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Bilberry Bonanza

Well, the past few days have been very pleasant, and even though I still have an annoying cough, I have pretty much recovered from my meltdown on the mountaintop on Saturday. Pete & Ginny have been here keeping me entertained, so I haven't had a moment to be bored, which is nice. Today we had loads of fun actually. Anders was away picking up the meat from the rams that we gathered on Skorpa last week, so us wwoofers had free reign. One of the things he'd suggested we do sometime is pick all the berries he hasn't had time to get to, so they can freeze them for use in the wintertime. It was a PERFECT berry picking day today.. warm, with a gentle cool breeze, and not too humid.
We picked the red currants first, on the bushes right next to the house. There are so many that even with 3 of us picking for 2 hours, it hardly seemed to make a dent.
Red currants are so amazing. I've had red currant jam and some red currant ice cream, both homemade and absolutely delicious.

Then we ate a delicious lunch of smoked salmon and scrambled eggs on fresh bread (I made some more last night!). We're seriously spoiled here. The food is so good.

P & G have been going on about bilberries lately, so next we had to go pick some of those. They're kind of like a wild mountain blueberry, but we don't have them in the states as far as I can tell, so it's funny to hear them talk about bilberry pie and bilberry jam and bilberry wine. I told them it sounded very British to me (but that could just be because they sound very British when they're saying it).
We drove up the mountain on the 4-wheel bike, with me on the back and Ginny on the front. The front looked scary, and Ginny squealed a bit, but I rode it on the way back and I thought it was great! I felt like I was 7 years old and riding on someones handlebars downhill. Dangling feet, hair flying, the whole deal. Fun fun.
Anyways, we picked a ton of bilberries. Stayed up in a beautiful mossy wooden area of the mountain for a couple of hours and then came back and sorted the berries and ate some fish pudding for dinner and then Ginny made us bilberry pie. Anders was home by then, and the 4 of us ate the whole pie between us, in 1 sitting, with sour cream on top. It was deeeeeeeeeeeelicious. Bilberry pie! Who knew?

Here's a photo of the bilberry sorting. I think we got like 5 kilos? I don't know how much that is really. It seemed like a lot, because the berries are so teeny.

Over pie, we had fun teaching Anders strange things to say in English. He gets very excited about odd English words. For instance, I used the word wonky in reference to the dishwasher wheel, and he goes "What's this? Wonky?" and we told him it wasn't really a proper word but it was a good one, so he'll probably end up using it, which I find really amusing. He also loved the phrase "It's the best thing since sliced bread" and thought it was so strange that he had to practice it a few times in order to properly remember it, and he claimed that he wanted to use that phrase a lot and confuse Norwegian people.

Anders really cracks me up, which in turn cracks him up. So it's a good environment in the house. Like, for example, he whistles pretty frequently, and random tunes often get stuck in his head (like someone's ringtone, or a jingle from tv). But yesterday he was in his office whistling the Star Spangled Banner, and I was walking by and I said "Anders, you're whistling a very patriotic tune." and he goes "Why?" and I said "Well its the Star Spangled Banner, but I don't know why you have it in your head!" and he had no idea either. Then this morning it was the theme from the Godfather, and once again he didn't know where it came from. But that was preferable. Funny funny.

This weekend, Anders will be at Hilde's place all weekend, leaving me and Pete and Ginny here to our own devices. We might go into town and try and find a sauna. Do some relaxing. And I'm sure there will be some more bilberry picking and 4-wheeling.

Oh I also found a ewe that I am completely enamored over. This morning I was in the sheep house feeding all the ewes with some hay, and this little lady (#5018) was the only one not eating, she was just looking up at me with these lovey eyes. So I talked sweetly to her and scratched her chest, and she just sat there with her nose on my wrist and blinked her eyes up at me. She loved the scratching so much that she started snorting every so often, like a cat purring. It was unbeleivably adorable. When I stopped, she actually wagged her tail too. I came back to see her this evening, and she's in the pen with so many others who look a lot like her, I was wondering if I'd find her again, but when I went up to the pen she came rushing over and wagged her tail and put her chin out. What a wonderful little pet! I have to think of a good name for her. #5018 doesn't have a very good ring to it.

Here she is with her buddies. She's the cutie on the left looking very lovey.

I have a video of her wagging her tail on flickr too (but you have to listen to me talking babytalk to a sheep, so viewer beware!)

Sunday, September 7, 2008

Things are looking up














I made the bread all by myself today in the house, and of course I was sure the whole time that I would do something terribly wrong and end up with unrisen hard lumpy loaves. Ginny had kindly gone over everything I needed to do, step by step, but 10 minutes after she left I started to forget what she had said, and the directions on the back of the flour were in Norwegian, so panic set in a little bit as I started out.

But of course I underestimated myself as usual, and the baking was really easy, and I actually quite enjoyed it.. I´ve heard people say that kneading dough is therapeutic and now I finally see what they mean. It really was a very calming experience, and when I took the loaves out at the end they looked great and quite edible, so I felt very rewarded.

It's nice to feel like I finally did something right!

Now if only this dry cough and runny nose would vanish, I would be perfectly content. You don't get a photo of that. It's not pretty.

Oh and I'm continuing to learn how to drive a stickshift. Today Pete gave me a few lessons on the old diesel 4WD Mercedes Jeep thingy that we drove up the old sheep road up the mountain. I drove it back down 5km on my own with Pete on the 4Wheeler behind me, and although I mostly just had to ride the brake and make sure the thing didn't throw itself into a ditch when we went over a massive rock, I was quite proud that I managed it and didn't stall or panic or do anything terribly wrong.
I don't have any photos of me driving the Merc, but here is Pete driving on a tame part of that sheep road.

He also taught me how to drive the 4Wheeler, which was MUCH simpler, and oh man I see why those little punks upstate were so crazy about their quads. That thing is so much fun to drive! I hope I can take it out again sometime!

Comic Relief

Well, I have a new role here as the butt of many jokes. My incompetence caused quite a riot during breakfast, let me tell you. ::sigh::
So Anders asked that I stay home and watch Britta today, because she can't be left on her own. Hilde was watching her yesterday, but went home with a stomache ache so can't be here with her today. A valid point, but I'm sure my uselessness on the mountaintop had something to do with the decision as well. Whatever, it means I don't have to kill myself today, and maybe I can rest enough to recover from this flu/cold/sickness, so I don't mind the reason.
He said while I was home today, I could bake them some more bread. I looked at him blankly. "What, you don't know how to bake bread either? Didn't you learn it in school?" Umm, no. Hardy har har, another laugh at Emma's expense! Can't hike mountains, can't bake. I had to remind myself that if I plopped any one of them down in BedStuy they'd be lost and mugged and extremely unhappy within 2 minutes. That's my only consolation. I wasn't a big useless lump in my own life, just when I'm out of my element here on the farm!

I'll need to practice my non-existent Norwegian skills today too, because Britta is too shy to use her English around me still. Maybe if she´s stuck in the house with me all day and no one else, she'll get bored enough to say a few English words to me. I met her teacher the other day when we picked her up from school, and the woman was from Texas! Lived in Norway for like 30 years, but when she was speaking to me in English she still dropped a few y'alls. Anyways, she said that Britta was very good at understanding me, she just didn't feel comfortable talking to me yet. So, we'll see. Wish me luck.

Man, if I screw up this bread I will be so annoyed!! Now I feel like I have to prove myself. Whatever. I'm a volunteer. They can laugh about me for months to come with the other wwoofers. Does it really matter? No. I'm sure they've had worse helpers than me over the years. I can't be THAT bad. Right?

Saturday, September 6, 2008

Crankypants

So I´m feeling immensely sorry for myself at the moment. In fact, you could even say I´m wallowing in self-pity. I´ve been fighting off a cold for the past few days, and after a particularly strenous sheep adventure today it feels like it´s turned into a flu. Fever, chills, body ache, nausea, sore throat. I´ve been lying in bed since after dinner, falling in and out of a feverish sleep and wondering what I can do about the big workday ahead of me tomorrow.....

Rugged outdoorswoman I am not. Today we hiked up a mountain, to the top, very quickly, and once we were there we chased sheep through marshy ankle deep moss and over slippery rocks and up and down and up and down the mountain. For 6 hours. What I am feeling is the flu could actually just be exhaustion I suppose. But it sure feels like flu.

I don´t even think I can get into the details of what we did today. Parts of it were fun, but I was wheezing and panting like an old dying dog continually all day long, except for the hour that they left me sitting by the hut because they were going off to find some sheep over the other side of the mountain and "didn´t need 4 people" which I believe translates to "you sound like you´re dying and you´re slowing us down" which was true and completely fine by me.

The problem with the strenous activity today was that every single other person there was either a local (used to the terrain, and pretty hardcore overall) or a hiking enthusiast (who runs up and down mountains for fun on their days off). I can safely say I was the only out of shape city girl who hasn´t climbed a mountain since junior high.

The extra frustrating part of this situation is that despite all my efforts and feeling so lousy at the end of the day, I really can´t say I was very helpful. Through no fault of mine, the sheep I was helping herd for about an hour ended up going back up the mountain and we therefore left them for another day since they were being so difficult. And every other hour of the day I was just trying to keep up with the speedy mountaineers.

The photos I took make it look like an awesome hiking adventure, and perhaps in retrospect I will look back at them and say "How cool that I did that!" but right now all I want is for someone to check my temperature and tuck me in and bring me soup and let me stay in bed all day tomorrow. I´m wondering how I possibly am going to do this all over again in the morning?
I know I sound like I´m being a baby, and maybe I really am, but my body is not used to this, and I think that this particular task may be a bit too advanced for me. It´s like throwing a beginner into the super advanced class or something. I mean, come on, I thought I was cool because I never complained about my 5th floor walkup as much as visiting friends did. This was slightly more intense. I kind of wish I could go into a 3 day coma to avoid more of this mountain stuff. Oh lord.


It´s really beautiful up there. If you´re not at death´s door.

Friday, September 5, 2008

Life and Death

What a tragic morning!!

I found a family of teeny tiny mice hiding in Tassen´s dogfood bag.
I tipped the bag to shake some food into my hand and give it to him (he had those wonderful hungry puppy eyes, I couldn´t help it) and out leapt 2 itty bitty mice! One fell into my empty rainboot, and the other into Anders´boot! I took the boots out onto the lawn and tipped them out carefully, and the mice jetted so fast back under the house. Oops! In retrospect, I should have brought them really far from the house, but I was kind of in shock.

I opened the bag again and saw 2 more mice! One was definitely dead, crushed under the big dogfood pellets, and the other one was lying on its side blinking up at me, stunned and possibly wounded.

I pulled the tiny deceased one out by its tail and put it on the lawn by a tree, then I carefully lifted up the blinky guy. He was SO cute and so soft, I put him in my hand and sat down to look at him. My heart was seriously aching. He was about the size of my thumb, and looked just like a friendly mouse out of a childrens storybook. He was breathing heavy and kept blinking his eyes slowly. Eventually he tried to stand, but it was clear that his right hind leg was broken.
What made me especially upset was that the leg probably broke when I shook the bag! I had no idea there were delicate little bones in there.

So I was tearing up a little bit and trying to decide what to do to put this little guy out of his misery.. I wasn´t about to ask Anders if I could make a tiny mouse bandage and toothpick crutch or anything. Anders came home at that moment and I told him what had happened. Despite the fact that he´s a practical guy and those mice are nasty little vermin he puts traps out for, he did look sincerely sorry for my wounded little friend. He said "He´s suffering?" and I nodded and he nodded and just said "You should take him to the cat." Which was kind of what I was thinking. I didn´t have the heart to kill him myself, and that´s just what cats like to do. So really, I put one animal friend out of his misery, and at the same time gave a little gift to another animal friend. Right?

I walked to the barn with the mouse in my hand, and carefully placed him on some hay, and Chloe ran down and sniffed him and I just had to leave because it was too tragic. He was the cutest thing in the whole world! I´m pretty much a murderer.

You´d think by now I would be a little immune to this animal life & death thing. I mean, on Monday I helped gather rams to bring to slaughter. I fed a wounded lamb that later had to be shot. But those things I somehow managed to disconnect myself from, because I didn´t have a hand in the killing. In the mouse situation, it was all me! Ugh. I guess it´s better than getting snapped in half by a mousetrap when you´re just trying to nibble some cheese, eh? I don´t know. It´s all so gruesome.

I´ll probably recover by tomorrow. But RIP little wounded mousey. Sorry I didn´t save you.

Thursday, September 4, 2008

"It´s not possible she speaks only English"

This is the translation Anders gave me at least.
His daughter Brita has down syndrome, and her friend Silvie with the same came over for dinner tonight. During dinner, Anders and I were speaking to each other a little bit in English, and then he´d switch to Norwegian to talk to them. At one point, when I had just said something to Anders, Silvie turned to me and said something very seriously. Anders said she was requesting that we speak in Norwegian so she could be in on the conversation. How big of a jerk did I feel at that moment? Yeah, big.
But the hilarious part of the situation was that when Anders tried to explain to Silvie that I was from America and only spoke English, she could not grasp the concept. They had to drop the subject eventually, because Anders told me she just said "It´s not possible she speaks only English". I was like "I know, I´m sorry."
So ridiculous!!
Now Silvie & Brita are in the living room having a grand old time, cracking up over something. And anyone who knows me knows I LOVE to eavesdrop on conversations. Slight problem in a country where you don´t know the language! I guess I should work on that, hm?

Today I am finally not feeling anxious. I think I´m just more comfortable with the unhurried pace of this farm. Also I tired myself out this morning sweeping the pens in the sheep house. Forceful sweeping can be really exhausting! And following that activity, Anders and I went through his fields pulling up dockweed by the root. The fields are REALLY hilly and the grass is very high (in preparation for the sheep who will be grazing there after we get them this weekend). High wet grass is quite difficult to walk through. Thick dockweed stalks are quite difficult to rip out by the root. We collected hundreds of them!! Holy crap I never want to see another dockweed again. It feels good to have gotten such great exercise today though. I was feeling tired but invigorated when we got home from the fields, so when Anders went to pick up Brita from school I stayed behind and cut some more grass. Freshly cut grass is such a wonderful smell! It´s nice relaxing work too, just using the little handheld weed wacker.

Another relatively quiet day at Ytre Åsen.

I haven´t been getting nearly enough emails, by the way. Don´t you people have news? Aren´t you freaking out about Sarah Palin or anything? Speak!

Wednesday, September 3, 2008

A quiet day at Ytre Åsen

Today it was just Anders and I on his farm. Hilde is at her farm on the island with Pete & Ginny. Anders had to leave this morning with his tractor to go move some hay bales somewhere, so he left me with a list of things that could be done around here, and said I could do however much I wanted until I was tired. I was really happy to have a list of chores though, because in my downtime lately I´ve been having minor freakouts.. just still trying to wrap my mind around where the hell I am and what I´m doing. Not to mention, everyone and everything I´ve ever known is oceans away. But that´s the beauty of it I suppose, right? Now I am forced to make new connections. And the people here are unbelievably nice.

Anyways, yes, chores. I groomed the horses for a while first thing this morning after Anders left, but the big one got too frisky and was pushing me around with his big nose (those guys are strong! eek!) so me and the barn cat went to the hay barn and carted the drying hay to the already dry pile.
I´ve named the barn cat Chloe. She´s soooo adorable. She technically belongs to the neighbors but she lives in the barn and I am worried that her owners haven´t been feeding her, cuz she is all skin and bones. I told Anders, and this afternoon he came back with a bag of catfood in his tractor! How sweet.
She´s hard to get a photo of, because she´s so lovey that she just wants to rub on the camera if you stop petting her even for a moment.

Then I put my laundry in because I only brought 2 pairs of jeans and 1 was covered in mud from the lamb rescue mission yesterday and the other was covered in mud and hay and horse hair from the chores today. So since I didn´t have any other pants except pyjama bottoms, I put on my vintage pink plaid shirt dress, but I still had more tasks to do outdoors, so I had to wear my green raincoat and green wellies. When Anders got back home, he found me in this crazy getup with a weedwhacker, cutting the grass around the front steps. He said all I needed was a scarf around my head and I´d look like some old Norwegian farmwoman. Probably true.

Later this afternoon, he had to go pick up Britta from school and asked me if I wanted a driving lesson. Him and Hilde were adament about teaching me how to drive stickshift (I only ever learned automatic, I know, I know, I´m a big baby).
So I drove all the way into Førde and back! Not that far, but I managed to stall out like 5 times right when we were about to turn and the old man in the car behind me was freaking out and Anders thought it was hilarious. I was having a minor panic attack. I´ll have to get the hang of it eventually though, right?
I like that I´m learning to drive in Norway, it´s kind of funny it took this long.
So many new things all at once! I feel like a newborn or something. Or an alien. I kind of am an alien here. Where the hell did I come from? hah

Oh and p.s. I am in love with the old sheepdog, Tassen. He may turn me into a dog lover yet! He offers me his paw every time I come near him, and nuzzles alot. Anders said today "Ah, he enjoys your company, look" cuz he was splayed out by my feet looking quite happy. How nice! My first Norwegian friend! Haha

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

First 48 hours of farming

How do I sum up everything that has happened since I arrived at Anders´farm on Sunday evening?

Well, alright.. on Monday Anders took me on the boat to the remote island of Skorpa. It´s a small island that has a few old farmsteads on it, but people don´t really live out on those small islands anymore because they´re so isolated. Anders has an arrangement with a man who has a farm on Skorpa, and he left like 35 rams there since last year, as far as I can tell. Anyways, our job was to go there and round up the little rams and get them into these 4 metal crates by the seaside. The crates were to be picked up Tuesday morning by a big boat that delivers them to Førde to be slaughtered. Kind of a depressing job, really, because the rams are really sweet and small and beautiful and it´s hard to look them in the eye when you´re sending them to their doom, but such is life.

The other wwoofer volunteers were on the island already waiting for us - a newly married British couple named Pete & Ginny. Anders had dropped them off there the previous evening. Although Skorpa was remote and uninhabited, the man who owns the farmhouse there keeps it quite comfortable and homey inside so he can stay there over the summer.

We arrived Monday afternoon and checked to make sure we were all ready for the early morning ram-gathering. It was a beautiful warm night and the sea was calm, so we took the boat out and went fishing. I realize now that I´ve only ever fished with show-offs who never want to teach me anything, so it was incredibly awesome that I was offered my own fishing rod and Pete showed me some tricks of how to lure in the big fish. Of course him and Anders ended up catching quite a few each, and I only caught 1 (I almost had 2 others, but they were sneaky and leapt off the hook right as I was reeling them in).

The fishing was probably my favorite thing I´ve done so far. We had such a fun time and were very excited about all the fish we were catching, and it was so amazing to be there on that gorgeous sea near an isolated island with some old Viking rams living there, just as the sun was setting over the water. I´ve never experienced anything quite like it. The guys were really invigorated by our thrilling catch, and wanted to keep going. So they hauled the old wooden crab traps out of the barn, filling them with heavy stones to sink them, and fish heads and innards to lure in the crabs.

We ate some sausages for dinner and went to bed early. I had a little bunk bed and my sleeping bag, so it was perfectly cozy. The weather´s been good - like 50-60 degrees I think.
Woke up at 6am because we couldn´t be sure when the boat was coming, and we needed to be ready in time. We drank coffee and ate cheese & pepperoni sandwiches (Norwegian pepperoni.. not really pepperoni but some kind of little round cured delicious meat slices). I was just putting on my wellies when I heard Anders outside saying "The sheep are gone!". Ginny and I looked at each other terrified and ran out after him, and sure enough the rams had found the weakest part of their fence and collectively trampled it, and they were nowhere to be seen. After some frantic rock scrambling, we found them and shooed them back into another pen. Kind of a dramatic start though.

I may be too lazy to explain the whole process of catching the rams and putting them into a wheelbarrow and carting them over to the dock and flipping them into the crates.. but that´s essentially what happened. I manned the wheelbarrow a good bit of the time, but I also took a bunch of photos. Hilde is writing a book about sheep and doesn´t have any documentation of this procedure, so my photography was justified, which was awesome! It also means I have a crapload of sheep-wrangling photos up on Flickr too which you should definitely check out.
Anyways, after all 30 rams were safely locked in, we tagged their horns with the appropriate strips ("return skin to owner" & "certified organic"). Then we drank more coffee and waited for the boat to arrive. Can I just say as an aside: I am so lucky that I´m staying with a coffee-loving farmer? Anders makes time for a lot of coffee breaks, and I´m so appreciative of them!

So yeah, next the boat came with a huge crane attached to it and Anders & Pete wrapped these massive chains around each crate and the crane scooped them up and the whole process took like under 5 minutes, which was crazy after the amount of time the preparation took! And by now, someone could already be enjoying some tasty meat, I suppose... what a morbid thought, hmn?
At this point, our work was pretty much done. So we checked our crab traps, and happily found that we had caught 6 of them!! That was awesome news, especially since we also had like 6 mackerel and some other yellow fish called lyr.
Seafood extravaganza!

We took the boat back to Hilde´s farm, stopping at yet another tiny island on the way to drop off 1 ram who´d been chosen for breeding at the last moment (and therefore spared his life, lucky guy!). I´m currently not doing a very good job at forming sentances, so now I´m just trying to get the content out there and screw form.

Back at Hilde´s island by about 2pm, after a glorious lunch of coffee and open faced sandwiches (for realz!), I was sent on a mission to get the mail across the island. It was quite a nice walk, since there are no cars and only 1 other inhabitant (a crazy old man named Alfred).

When I got back, everyone had gone their seperate ways, so I lay on the couch and wrote in my journal as the rain started to fall outside.
A moment later, a soggy Pete & Ginny ran in and asked if I wouldn´t mind helping them with a rescue mission. They had found a sick lamb on the other side of the island (way further than the mailbox) and couldn´t carry it all the way back on foot. So we got in the dingy and motored over, and what had been a slight drizzle turned into legit rain, which was unpleasant to say the least.
Pete deposited Ginny & I on a slippery rock, and we trekked over to the tree that they´d tethered the poor lamb to. We half dragged, half carried him back to the boat. Not an easy task. He was NOT feeling it. When we got back to Hilde´s dock, Pete had to drive the tractor down to get us - the road up to the house and barn is extremely steep and gravely, and there´s no way we could drag a resisting lamb up there. So G and I had to climb into the wet muddy backhoe with this depressed lamb, and crouch there as we bumped up along this steep road. In the rain.
Overall a thoroughly miserable experience, but come on - I helped save a sick lamb! He was all alone, pretty much destined to die out in the wilderness. And now a vet is coming to see him, and he might be okay!

Hilde and Anders fried up our freshly caught mackerel and it was DELICIOUS of course, and then Anders and I had to go back on the boat to pick up his daughter Britta from swim class and finally.. back home. After all those adventures, it really did feel like coming home, which was refreshing to realize. I´m very glad my homebase here is so wonderfully cozy.

More adventures to come. That was a fair amount for 2 days though, right?

Sunday, August 31, 2008

Am I dreaming?

Oh my god I just got to my first farm and it´s more beautiful than I ever could have imagined!! It was nearly dark by the time I got here, and then they fed me a delicious dinner and we chatted for a while and I cozied up what will be my bedroom for the next month. So I won´t get a chance to take any photos of the outside until tomorrow, but

here is my cozy bedroom:

It´s bigger than my last Brooklyn bedroom! Sorry, it´s messy.. I just moved in!

And tomorrow myself and Anders (the farm owner) will be heading over to a little island where their sheep were living all summer, and making sure they are all ready to be taken back by a different boat on tuesday morning. We´re staying overnight in a tiny little cabin there too!

They have sheep and horses and two big dogs, and I´m just a little too exhausted right now to even go on further, but let´s just say I feel very much at home already, and it´s just so good to be settled and comfortable and surrounded by such amazing beauty. This landscape is seriously unbelievable!!
Oh and the wife got salmonella poisoning because she ate undercooked duck while attending an organic farming conference in Lithuania!
Ok, goodnight.

Waiting

I'm getting ready to leave for the farm today, but I just got an email from the farmer that his wife is in the hospital with some salmonella poisoning so I have to take the later bus. Is it a bad sign that a farmers wife has salmonella poisoning? Should I be worried?

Last night I had to switch rooms in the hostel and it turned out to be a great move because I ended up with a lovely new roommate from Germany named Annemarie who was exactly my age. We chatted for a while in the room and then she asked me if I had heard anything about the massive metal festival going on in Bergen right now. And it was such an enlightening question, because I was seriously wondering what was going on here that there were so many creepy dudes with long hair and piercings and leather jackets and pantera t-shirts. Here I was thinking that Bergen just had a lot of metal dudes living here year round!! She thought that was hilarious that I didn't realize something was going on and just took it as normal. Ahh well.

Anyways, she was curious to see what it was all about, so she asked me if I wanted to accompany her. I was super psyched because going to a Norwegian metal festival with your hostel bunkmate seems just entirely appropriate, doesn't it? We wandered there, far out in the city like 20 mins from our hostel, and of course when we got there they informed us that it was sold out and had been for quite some time. So we didn't get a chance to see Carcass perform, unfortunately. Aw shucks! Ha. We ended up sitting by the water and watching hideous drunken metalheads stumble around for a while, and had a really lovely conversation. It was sooo refreshing to actually talk to someone for a while, I had been missing it the past couple of days!